Darlinghurst my Darlinghurst, never close to a train station but always a nice walk to get to you. Sandwiched close to Sydney’s CBD, Funkatello welcomes you with the sweet leisure of homestyle cooking.
Funkatello’s interior harnesses its main charm, with an open-ish kitchen, chipped walls and a mismatched plush couch lounge. The stair climb to the attic-y upstairs floors was much of anticipation, and my company and I were delighted to be sat by the most perfect single window-side seating. With the whole horizontal of Stanley Street in our view, this was probably the first time I was not bothered by the evening chill blowing on my face. I didn’t mind at all. We people-watched others eating their meals, couples kissing and friends laughing, all sharing a bottle. The dashing 389 bus made an appearance very 15 or so.
I had no idea this seating would capture my heart – to see others enjoy their meal from such a small window – it definitely set the tone for ours. A true appetiser if you will.
Perusing the menu (which was filled with all things simple, lovable, and classic Italian weeknight cooking) we were eager to order. Being two cheeky teenage girls, it was the obvious choice we opt for prosciutto ham and melon to start and two Aperol spritzes (duh) to drink. Given its homestyle impression, we opted for a shareplate way of eating; with one spaghetti cacio e pepe to share (add prosciutto for 5 bucks) (again, duh), and a side each of the roasted pumpkin with feta and pine nuts and the brussels sprouts with bacon and peas.
Lawd. From the vintage ceramicware, to the rose designs kissing the entire surface of our dinnerplates and the bodacious pot-bellied glasses of the Aperol spritzes – I could tell this place was going to be a casual favourite of mine. There is tenderness to be found within the details.
Onto the food…
Now, it would be sacrilegious and impossible to mess up prosciutto and melon, and Funkatello thankfully did not falter. The melon was a pretty mandarin colour, ripe and plump, and there was certainly no skimping on the San Daniele quality of prosciutto. For some more saltiness and a bit of grit, thick shavings of parm was also very, very welcomed by us. Both sides, though not mind-blowing, were ace to how they were described on paper. Pumpkin was fork soft, and the feta added a rich tangy bite much needed to counter the mushiness. Pine nuts, a predictable measure of adding texture, would have been more compatible flavour wise had there been some extra char on the pumpkin. A little smokiness/ sweetness would take it – perhaps a thin glaze of sorts? The brussels sprouts were browned till crispy and the fattiness from the crispy bacon added a great savoury quality to otherwise buttery veggies.
I’m going to start a new paragraph to talk about this pasta. My favourite order at Ragazzi is their always-on-menu cacio e pepe, hence why I needed to try another rendition here. Lawd (x2). Funkatello’s cacio e pepe hones on the simplicity of the dish well, starring the chewy al-dente bite of the spaghetti, creamy pecorino and generous lashings of pepper neither overpowering nor lacking. However, what I loved most was the unique feature of a flavoured oil, seemingly a parsley-garlicky emulsion that just elevated the dish in a most clever way. The flavoured oil further indulges the palate, amplifying an exciting profile beyond creaminess that is both addicting and savoury. Yummy!
To conclude our meal, the house-made dessert we chose was the pannacotta. Presented like one of those viral Japanese “rain-drop cakes”, the pannacotta was perfectly bouncy, doused in a thin layer of coffee syrup and topped what we guessed to be crumbled Lotus biscoff biscuits. I mean, there was no way this dessert was going to be bad.
Funkatello, with the fairest prices in this corner of Sydney, (almost all of the pastas were under $20) and its kitschy, achingly homely décor, is a lovely venue. A lovely venue that is perfect for those intimidated by the grandeur and unspoken manner that surrounds fine dining but still want to treat themselves with a solid, casually- great venue that won’t break the bank.
Very Busy Bee 
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